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Cap d’Agde

August 29th, 2008 |

It’s an unusually busy day at the bank in Cap d’Agde. The nearby cashpoint machine has broken down, so all the customers are having to come in to get their money. A smartly-dressed woman employee dispenses the cash, and a man beside her deals with the resulting tide of paperwork. A long queue of people snakes its way across to the door, but the mood is patient and relaxed. After all, they’re here on their holidays, and they have all the time in the world.

It’s just like any bank anywhere, except for one minor detail: many of the customers are naked. It’s like one of those dreams where you’re walking down a busy shopping street and half the people, yourself included, seem to have forgotten to put on any clothes.

This is the quartier naturiste of Cap d’Agde in the Languedoc-Roussillon region of southern France, and scenes like this are everywhere one looks. It is an entire self- contained naked town with its own shops, post offices, petrol station, and a choice of around 30 restaurants and bars. In the height of summer, tens of thousands of people flock here from all over the world.

The resort even has its own branch of the Spar supermarket chain, probably the only one in the world where clothed male checkout assistants struggle to stay awake as dozens of nude women await their attention.

Stripping off on Cap d’Agde’s 2km of beautiful beach is no big deal. On a normal beach, you’re wearing only one or two garments anyway, so wearing none at all seems pretty natural, especially when the temperature is in the 90s and everyone else is naked. But trundling a supermarket trolley around the aisles while clad in nothing but a baseball cap and a bemused smile is something you won’t get used to in a month of Sundays.

The quartier naturiste is part of the much bigger purpose-built “textile” (ie clothed) resort of Cap d’Agde. To be honest, it’s not much to look at. This may be the country that gave us Versailles and the chteaux of the Loire, but in the 60s and 70s France’s architects seem to have undergone some sort of collective brainstorm. They built all those uniquely horrible ski resorts in the Alps, and they built Cap d’Agde.

The brutalist concrete apartment blocks are visible for miles around, and many of the apartments themselves are hardly big enough to swing a cat in. But no one comes to Cap d’Agde for the buildings. If the weather is good (which it invariably is in summer) you’re out all day anyway, enjoying the resort’s many attractions. And for those needing a little more room to move, there are always the pretty, bougainvillea-clad villas, the smart, modern three-star Hotel Eve, or the huge but tranquil and leafy campsite.

For a naturist resort, it’s amazing just how preoccupied people are by clothing. One couple arriving at the same time as my wife and myself were struggling under the weight of five large suitcases. This is because when the sun goes down, the people dress up. A few hardy souls remain nude for the duration of their stay, sometimes being the only naked diners in a restaurant full of clothed people.

On the beach, the vast majority of people strip off; and official patrols come round and politely insist that you do so unless you have a very good reason. They are known as “black hats”, because that is all they wear.

Away from the beach, some dress, others don’t. During one heavy shower of rain we were treated to the bizarre spectacle of people walking around in raincoats with nothing underneath.

Clothes are also one of the main commodities sold in the shops. Many of these seem to be made of PVC and rubber, which raises the obvious question about a naturist resort: isn’t there a sexual undertone to all this?

Cap d'Agde nudists

Cap d

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My first familiarity with a nude beach

August 29

In 1994 I was a second-year student of an institute and worked in spare time in one firm as a financial director. By improbable confluence of circumstances we have concluded a contract with one of the Bulgarian firms on delivery in Ukraine of canned food of the Bulgarian production. The bargain was favourable enough both for us and for the seller, and as the additional premium we have received the permits on a resort in Albena.
Unknown charm of alluring foreign trip attracted so hardly, that having thrown all businesses, I, with the direct participation of my family, neighbours and friends, have wrapped up urgently the resort’s attributes and with a highly lifted head has departed to a path, feeling myself as Magellan and Rokfeller in one bottle.
Having passed burden of the path and pleasure from the meeting with the brothers - the slavs I shall proceed at once to my first familiarity with a nude beach. In sanatoriums I was acquainted with the charming girl from Germany - her name was Eva. Her’s and mine broken English became the reason for each of us to pride ourselves of the linguistic abilities has appeared, and on leisure we, from all forces helping ourselves by facial expression and gesticulation, order slow conversations about the degradation of the English language from great Schakespiere’s times. Then I was 19, Eva was younger of myself for one year, we have made friends fast enough and conducted all time together. Once, after an enough late visit on a local disco, I have told to her, that at school in outlet evening we went to meet sunrise with all the class. The night, the stars, the German envy simply could not keep me another output except to train for a new profession - the guide-expert in sunrises. Serching for the most romantic place for contemplation (under my fellow-traveller’s version), or being afraid to stay so that man’s instincts have not insulted the honour of Prussian beauty (my version), we were loitered for four whole hours on marine coast entertaining ourselvs by the nationalistic applications - such as:” Germany is bad, Ukraine is good”,” Ha-Ha-HA”. Mooving away on a decent enough distance from the latter on a coastal band of a sanatorium beach, we have noticed at last the first rays of the ascending sun. A show is actually unforgettable. The huge sun on the sky, shining sea and you, feeling yourself the host installed at the presence of charming foreigner.
Having taken pleasure in nature, we have fallen asleep directly on a beach. I woke up when the sun, which I commended so high, has accepted me by an impudent image for a meat semifinished item simply requiring for urgent preparation up to a condition of a crunching peel. Near to me I have found my friend’s things, which, having spat on international fidelity, proved by me the last nightl, imperturbably left me for bathing at best, for spice in worse. Not having agreed with such statement of a question, I was going in the urgent order to accept all measures for an evacuation of myself more close to water. However, having lifted my eyes, I was puzzled with much more interesting observation. Between me and the sea were some absolutely naked tanners, mainly of men, whose pleased expressions of faces did not keep a doupt that they did not become victims of night pirating and their nudity was planned initially. My first impression was, that these people specially have waited for a moment, when I fell asleep, so to play a trick on me in such a refined method. I pulled myself together, stopped to think about the probable note of the protest from Ukraine to the government of Bulgaria and decided completely to orient on district. As was clarified, round me there was a still set of the people tanning naked. A possibility to understand what happens, knitting it’s brow for the last time, has asked for a small leave at it’s own expense and purely at once has received it. More »

My first time experience:

August 29th, 2008 |

I was vacationing at a resort in the Caribbean. The first two days were spent on the beach sitting in a soggy swimsuit and being chafed by sand. I signed up for a day boat trip and picnic at a beach on an island away from the resort. As we were leaving, I discovered that the excursion was to an island with a nude beach! I decided to go anyway, thinking no way was anybody getting me out of my suit. I stood firm, and in fact, was the last person to give in and shed my swimsuit - I was the last one to get dressed to return to the resort. Why hadn’t someone told me about this sooner? I was hooked, and that was over 10 years ago. The phrase, “nude when possible, clothed when practical,” definitely describes me. I do wear at least shoes when vacuuming the house though as I have a habit of running over my toes with the vacuum cleaner.

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